Jaya

Malaysian / $

90 Baxter St. south of Canal St.
6, J, M, N, Q, R, W, Z trains to Canal St.
(212) 219-3331

Mon-Thur 10.30 AM-11 PM, Fri-Sun 11 AM-11 PM
No reservations needed
Takeout & delivery available
Cash only

Malaysian cuisine can be either world-class (fascinating, varied, filling) or awful (boring, heavy, stultifying) depending on the level of execution. Best place to try it in Manhattan is Jaya, in the jumble of Chinatown's gritty streets. Befitting a place whose logo includes a chili pepper, the spicy dishes are the best, especially the noodles. Singapore Chow Mai Fun, with slender rice noodles in curry sauce, is the real thing—not the imitation palmed off in Chinese restaurants. Malaysian Clam Chow Fun mates broad rice noodles with a dark rich fish sauce. Roti Canai is a flaky pastry served with with brown curry dipping sauce. Achat is pickled string beans, carrots, cucumber, and cabbage. The appetizers are so good you may neglect the entrees—but don't. Try squid with chili paste served on a lotus leaf, or deep-fried tofu with sweet and spicy Thai-style sauce.

<<< previous restaurant | next restaurant >>>