Patsy's Pizzeria

Old-fashioned coal-oven pizza / $

2291 1st Ave. between E. 117th-118th Sts.
6 train to 116th & Lexington
(212) 534-9783

7 days 11 AM-midnight
Stand and eat, takeout & delivery available
Cash only

Other locations: 61 W. 74th St. (Columbus-CPW), 1312 2nd Ave. (W. 68th-68th), 206 E. 60th St. (3rd Ave.), 509 3rd Ave. (W. 34th), 318 W. 23rd St. (8th Ave.), 67 University Pl. (E. 10th St.)

As we stood in the tiny public area of Patsy's in East Harlem, we could see coals glowing in the oven. That's what distinguishes the original Patsy's. It's now illegal to build a coal oven in Manhattan but this one has been operating since 1932 and the city fathers wouldn't dare close down such a venerable institution. Patsy's thin crusts are famous, occupying a tricky middle ground between crispy and chewy, and have a slightly sooty suggestion of coal that lingers lusciously on the palate for several minutes after you've swallowed the last slice. The crushed tomatoes are lovely. Follow the locals' fold-and-eat technique. Sinatra used to have these pies shipped to him in Vegas.

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