Spicy and Tasty

Chinese-Szechuan / $

39-07 Prince St. between Roosevelt-39th Aves.
Flushing (Queens)
7 train to Main St.-Roosevelt Ave.
(718) 359-1601

7 days, 11 AM-11 PM
Reservations required for dinner
Takeout available, no delivery
Cash only

Szechuan restaurants have been fashionable in New York since the 1970s——there's a mediocre chain of them flung all over Manhattan—but this is the real thing. Located near the terminus of the 7 line in Flushing, the bustling Queens equivalent of Chinatown, it serves up delicacies absent from most Chinese menus—such as spicy pork kidneys, a taste we acquired young, when our mom served them for breakfast (minus the spice). The pig blood cake, stewed fish head, and duck tongue may remain on our to-do list for some time, but we did work up the courage for thin-sliced spicy double cooked pork, whose multiple flavors stimulated several parts of our palate at once, and non-spicy smoked tea duck, tender and simply marvelous. Weekend dinner is busy—come for the quite affordable lunch specials if possible.

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