Taste Good

Definitive Malaysian / $

82-18 45th Ave., near Broadway, next door to
Hong Kong Supermarket, Elmhurst (Queens)
G, R, V trains to Elmhurst Ave. & Broadway
(718) 898-8001, 898-1991

Mon-Wed, Fri-Sun 10:30 AM-10 PM (closed Thur)
Limited seating, reservations suggested for dinner
Takeout available, no delivery
Cash only

Take the R train into Elmhurst, a mostly Asian enclave in Queens, to reach New York's best Asian restaurant—quite possibly the world's best. Malaysian cuisine can be either heavenly or heavy but here it's food for gods. Start with stuffed tofu (pork and fish with bean curd wrappings floating in rich curry soup) and Nasi Lemak (coconut-milk rice, nutty-tasting pandanus leaves, spiced anchovies, chicken curry, hardboiled egg). Proceed through the Indian, Singapore, and Hong Kong noodle dishes (the curry-flavored Indian Mee Goreng noodles have chunks of reddish bean curd that might be mistaken for tandoori chicken). Jumbo shrimps are huge and come with the heads still on. For meat eaters there's "Love Me Tender" Beef Rendang slow-cooked in curry sauce. And for the adventurous: grilled stingray.

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