Vatan

Indian-Gujarati, vegetarian, prix fixe / $$

409 3rd Ave. between E. 28th-29th Sts.
6 train to 28th & Lexington
(212) 689-5666
vatanny.com

Tue-Thur, 5-9 PM, Sat-Sun 5-10:30 PM
Reservations suggested
No takeout or delivery
Visa, MC, AmEx

Vatan is breathtakingly unique. It breaks from the pack by offering a rare cuisine from the Gujarat region of western India, in an unusually elaborate but pleasantly bucolic setting, with a ceremonial flourish, and with an almost vegan purity (barring a touch of dairy). No decision making needed. Just walk in and a fixed-price meal of more than 20 small courses is brought (including mango ice cream and ginger-cardamon-milky tea for dessert). Ask for seconds if you dare. We blew off most of the rice dishes but still could barely waddle out of there. Your server in colorful native dress will carefully explain each dish, what mixes with what, and you may specify whether you'd like it spicy, moderate, or mild. The unusual presentation requires dedication and hard work. Tip generously, and if you'd like to take it slow, or receive extra attention, arrive early. Bravo, Vatan.

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